This is a restaurant that held a Michelin star in 2025 but dropped to Michelin Selected following a change in head chef. Perhaps more notable, though, is that it has been operating in Ginza — one of Japan’s most expensive districts — for 50 years. The kitchen is now led by Chef Sugita, born in 1995, young but with experience at restaurants including Sézanne.

The cooking style feels like the restaurant’s classic framework layered with the chef’s own contemporary sensibility. Since I dined at lunch, on a relatively affordable menu, it’s hard to say I experienced the restaurant’s full range — but for what it’s worth, my impression was: delicious, but not particularly exciting. The course’s structure was fairly predictable. That said, every single dish delivered without a single misstep.

Given that the lunch course here runs about $100, a modest shortfall in creativity is easy to forgive. What truly sets this restaurant apart, above all else, is the wine list. Fifty years in business have made its cellar richer than perhaps any other restaurant in Tokyo. Much of the collection was secured before the era of skyrocketing wine prices, so bottles from the ’90s and 2000s are listed at remarkably good prices. In terms of value, it’s one of the finest restaurants to be found anywhere in Asia.

I was able to enjoy a Jean Louis Chave Hermitage 1999, in perfect condition, for around $400. There are plenty of other options beyond this as well, so for readers who lean more toward wine, this restaurant is well worth a visit on any trip to Tokyo.

The sommelier’s handling of the wine is remarkably careful. Even while pouring, he minimized any disturbance to the wine, and periodically swapped out glasses even though we were drinking the same wine throughout, taking care not to let the aromas of food and wine intermingle. The waiters on the floor were distinguished older gentlemen — quite possibly people who’ve been with this restaurant for much of its history. One small disappointment: it took the staff a little while to notice that one of my dining companions was left-handed.

Reservation:
https://omakase.in/en/r/co127623

Booking Difficulty: You can find your spot on your desired schedule.

Cost:
Lunch 16000JPY (~100USD)
Dinner 28000JPY (~180USD)
+12% service charge

Pois gras pate canape

Shirokabi cheese and olive oil

Sweet shrimp & Meyer lemon

A fingerbite cleanser

Hokkaido oyster with limes and herbs

Bread from Parklet, a well reputed local bakery

Shiroamadai and clam

Displaying the main menu, asparagus & Lamb

Roquefort lamb, asparagus and green beans

Ice cream

Desserts

and some more

Wine of the Day

Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Rouge 1999

Pale Ruby in color. Roses, minty herb and black pepper notes are textured around the bright cherry and red berry aromas. Cedar and some leather and earth notes are still well balanced with its primary notes. The tannin has become soft, with above average acidity. More like a classic Burgundian Grand Cru Pinot Noir. Very impressive.